Power and Locks

“Hey Siri, what time is it?”

“It’s 5:44 a.m.”

Bang! Right on! I woke up less than one minute before the alarm. I slept uninterrupted all the way through. Having this cabin and a mattress after two nights in my tent definitely made a difference. Again, I feel grateful to the host for accommodating me.

I perform my usual morning routine, load up the bike, and leave the campground before dawn, riding through a fine mist of rain, ready to have a quick breakfast at the nearby Timmies.

Today, I start to make my way back home. I hope to be back Thursday afternoon, so I can relax and spend time with Nathalie. I also have to prepare for the weekend’s family reunion.

I consider two options: take the northern route, via Timmins, Val d’Or and La Verendrye park, or continue on the Grand Algoma Tour by going South to Sault Ste. Marie, then West toward home. Since I’d like to be home sooner, I choose to finish up the Algoma Tour, and take the familiar Highway 17 via Sudbury and North Bay.

While getting ready to ride out, I notice something peculiar about this area: this is pickup truck country. Everyone and their grandmothers are driving them. In the drive-through lane at the Tim Hortons, out of ten vehicles, nine are pickup trucks.

Riding back on Highway 17 leaving Wawa, I think about how this highway goes all the way to Ottawa. In a way, I’m already connected to home.

Soon, I enter Lake Superior Provincial Park. I’m awestruck by the scenery through this park: it’s absolutely gorgeous! Curvy roads, up and down and around large hills, cutting through forest-covered granite rock, with Lake Superior peering through the forest to my right now and then. It reminds me a little of the road leaving Manitoulin Island, but dialled up a notch. It also reminds me of the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton. I love it! This is definitely among my favourite roads to ride.

Back when I visited the lighthouse near Gore Bay, I dipped my hands in Lake Huron. My thoughts now turn to finding an occasion to do the same with Lake Superior. After enjoying most of the park, I stop at the Agawa Bay Campground, where the Visitor Centre is located. Similar to the one in Algonquin Park, there’s an exhibit hall for exploring the wonders of Lake Superior. Did you know that it contains more water than the other Great Lakes combined? I learn that it is powerful, and many ships have succumbed to its destructive force. I learned that the Ojibwe believed its tumultuous waters were stirred by the great lashings of Misshepezhieu’s tail (The Great Lynx). I also learned that a main source of nourishment for the people at the time was maple syrup.

I finally go outside, behind the centre, to the beach, and witness the awesome power of the lake, which I heard before entering the centre: its strong waves wash up on the shore in loud, rhythmic crashes. It’s very windy, and combined with the heavy cloud cover, they seem to stir up a storm on the lake. As I gather a few smooth pebbles I find interesting, a wave suddenly rushes in farther than usual, and pushes me back, as if the lake is telling me: “Fear me, for I am strong and powerful!” Instead of me touching it, it actually touched me!

I remain a while to feel and breathe in the strong spirit of the Lake. On my road trips, when I find experiences that touch me specially, I have a strong desire to absorb the moment, and make it part of me. It pains me somewhat to leave these experiences behind when I feel the pressure to get back on the road, so I do my best to breath them in as best I can.

Later down the road, I see a rest stop with a historical plaque about the Trans-Canada Highway, of which Highway 17 is a part. This particular stop is actually the halfway mark of the whole cross-continental highway, 7,820km in total, 2,350km of which are in Ontario. The Trans-Canada Highway goes from St. John’s, Newfoundland all the way to Victoria, British Columbia. It was completed in 1962, near Wawa, and this section of the land was the most challenging to work on. Riding down, I could definitely see why! It does make for a really awesome ride.

Also at this stop is Chippewa Falls. I take my camera and head down the short path to go see them. A plaque mentioned two sets of waterfalls, but when I got there, I only saw one. After exploring a bit, I finally found the other: it’s a little more difficult to get to. As I carefully move around on the rocks, I remember what Vincent told himself about hiking alone: if I get hurt here, who will help me? As much as I avoid taking riskier steps, I still managed to get my boot in the water, and a little cut on my finger from the sharp rocks. I do finally get to a good position to take shots of the lower set of falls.

I finally get to Sault St. Marie, and look for something to photograph. I wonder if there’s a spot where I can see both Lake Huron and Lake Superior. As I ride around, I see a Parks Canada sign for some locks. I’m fascinated by locks, so this is perfect. I get to the Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site, and get enchanted by the genius engineering of the whole area. Electric power generator for the locks, motor houses for the gates, emergency swing dam: all marvels to me. At the time it was built, it was the longest lock in the world, and had the largest gates. I ask a guide many questions, to which he seemed quite happy to answer. Having been a guide a the Museum of Science and Technology in my youth, and with Vincent now a guide at the Aviation and Space Museum, I share the passion for interpretation.

I now leave Sault Ste. Marie, and rejoin Highway 17 on the long way back home. The road here is actually divided, for quite a ways out of town. Gone are the wonderful, lush-covered rocky hills, replaced by long stretches of straight road, and long swooping flat curves. It’s easy to get bored, so I maintain my focus with some deep breathing, constant awareness of my speed and specially of the other drivers or potential hazards.

I stop for a bite in Iron Bridge, then for a coffee in Espanola. I’ll be able to make it to North Bay, but it’ll be night when I get there. I better call ahead, and make some sleeping arrangements with family. If not, I’ll have to stop earlier and set up camp. My cousin Paul graciously accepts to host me with his family for the night.

I avoid riding in the dark in order to reduce some risk. I quicken my pace before the sun sets, and an hour and some later, it’s getting quite dark, so I slow down, keep two fingers on the front brake lever, and my right foot hovering over the rear break pedal: better to be ready for anything.

After an uneventful ride into North Bay, Paul welcomes me warmly, and we chat for a while before I take a shower, then start writing. Even though this was the longest riding day, and despite the bits of rain, I’m glad to have had a chance to experience some great riding, beautiful parks, and awesome engineering.