Long may your big jib draw!

At the Barachois Pond campground, I meet a very friendly and generous local young couple, Amy and Dan, who were camping here for a few days. They were quite interested in my adventure. I learn about where they live, the features around, and give me some advice on interesting roads to take and where to eat breakfast. Dan tells me about the place where they grew up, and how it was open to welcome anyone to hang out, and spend time with the family. I’m reminded of Steve’s words: “That’s the way it should be.”

As I head out, the weather is perfect: nice and sunny, barely any clouds in the sky. I take the nearby scenic route Dan suggested. It’s a nice twisty road, although rough in parts and I have to watch for the occasional gravel thrown onto the road in some corners.

The detour to Robinsons and St Fintan’s is short, but worth it. I ride through a few cute, small communities, as well as farm lands. The road crosses two bridges over scenic rivers.

Once back on the Trans-Canada Highway, I turn North, back-tracking a bit, to stop at a nearby Irving station for breakfast. The omelette was excellent; the coffee too. Liona served me with a smile. I’m glad Dan suggested this.

I stop at the Visitor Centre just outside Port aux Basques, and to my elation, Judy is there and she recognizes me right away as I enter the place. With her permission, I give her a big “thank you” hug. I wanted to thank her for her great advice on my way in, and through her, thank Newfoundland and Labrador for the whole wonderful experience, one of the most precious in my life. Tears of joy well up in my eyes: I’m overwhelmed with gratitude.

I take a few moments to regain my composure, and start riding again to make a short pit stop in Port aux Basques for gas and a break. I meet a travelling couple, Tom and his wife. He’s a retired electrician who previously worked in Newfoundland to help build a ski hill. This is his first time actually exploring the island. He recounts his many other adventures all over North America.

As I still have plenty of time before my ferry ride, and at another camper’s suggestion, I take to road to Rose Blanche: it’s a nice, twisty scenic road along the southern coast. There’s a good seafood restaurant the next town over, in Margaree, on the other side of Port aux Basques. It’s called the Sea-Shore Restaurant. I take the time to visit it and have their special of the day, a halibut dinner. It was fabulous. I was surprised at its size!

Satiated, I get back to the road, and ride on a wonderfully twisty road, with scenic view, after scenic view, almost episodic, as I go from one hill to the next, changing the view every time.

The road gets twistier and twistier the farther I go. I slow down. The turns get sharper. I pass two villages with interesting names: Isles aux Morts and Burnt Island, finally getting lost in Rose Blanche. I backtrack my steps until I see the turn I missed.

I get to the end of the road: it’s a stone lighthouse. I pay the fee and walk the trail to the building, learning as I go about the ships that ran ashore, all hands perished, in various storms over time. The names of the vanquished listed on placards along the way.

I also learn that the name of Rose Blanche comes from “Roche Blanche” meaning White Rock, for the colour of the rock at the nearby Diamond Cove to the West.

The lighthouse is no longer active now, replaced by an automated beacon atop an iron tower. The building was restored and rebuilt by a local association as a tourist attraction and a museum. I go up the narrow, spiral stone staircase, but access to the top floor—where the lamp is—is restricted. The light keeper’s house is set up as an exhibit, restoring the old furnishings as it looked earlier last century.

After taking in the views, it’s time for me to head back to Port aux Basques. I get back on the twisty road and it takes me no time to arrive at my destination. A quick break at Timmie’s, then in line for the ferry.

After some time getting settled on the ship, to my surprise, they paged me: there are some cabins available. Since it’s an overnight, 7-hour trip, I had signed up onto the waiting list, as they were fully booked. Nice!

Time for a shower and a comfy bed. I want to be well-rested for the road tomorrow.

Good night!

Riding distance: 272km