Vikings in Canada

[First of all, a clarification: There is no such thing as a Viking people, and they didn’t have horns on their helmets. Norse men would “go on a Viking”, which means rampaging and pillaging. For the sake of romanticism, I’ll do like the interpretation centre does, and use the term interchangeably with the more appropriate “Norse”, the people.]

Now, I come to the main destination of this trip: L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site. This is the site where they found signs and artifacts of Vikings travelling to North America. I had heard of the place a long time ago, and was I curious to go see it. I’ve been enjoying playing Valheim, the video game, and became even more fascinated with the Viking culture since. Wanting to explore Newfoundland by motorcycle, it made for a good destination.

Last night, I went to the Great Viking Feast, an interactive buffet in St Anthony, with staff dressed up in Norse clothing and putting on a show. Diners are encouraged to participate in the act. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience! The food was all local Newfoundland dishes, and they were delicious. I highly recommend signing up for it if you are ever in the area.

After a good night sleep in a hotel bed, I hit the road toward L’Anse au Meadows; I plan on staying the whole day there to take it all in, and learn as much as I can. Fortunately, the weather is perfect.

The road at the site is under renovation, as well as the centre’s parking lot. I’m directed to go to the temporary lot, off the grounds, and take the shuttle to the centre. I make sure to only bring my camera as I leave the parking lot.

My bike often gets the attention of many elderly people. They inquire about it, and are often surprised to learn it’s a modern motorcycle, with all the features of one: water-cooled, fuel-injected, ABS, traction control. They’re even more astonished when I tell them it’s 1,200cc. The bike’s retro style seems to mask the size of engine. They tell me they used to ride a British bike back in the 60s or 70s. They always have a wide, childish grin when they reminisce about it.

I arrive at the interpretation centre, and was glad to find out they have a guide that speaks French. Gabriel gives me the tour of the grounds; he’s very knowledgeable and his discourse is quite detailed and informative. I learn that he is from New Brunswick and notice he speaks with an Acadian accent. He is in second year studying History a the University. His passion for the stories he shares is apparent.

He drops me off at the recreated settlement buildings. The place is out of time. If it weren’t for the few visitors, you’d think you had travelled back in time. They recreated three buildings: the main dwelling, a furnace and a small hut for indentured servants. I didn’t realize Vikings had slaves. These came from Ireland and were well well-fed, clothed, housed, and well treated. They didn’t sleep in the main hall with the other workers: they had their own hut.

There are guides here dressed up in period-appropriate clothing, and they share stories in character: a worker, a smith, a seamstress, etc. We interact with them to learn more about their day-to-day activities, while they demonstrate various typical tasks they would perform. The experience is quite immersive.

Did you know that Vikings washed themselves once a week, groomed their hair and beards, and used make up? European nobility of the time washed themselves only twice a year!

Staff set up a Norse-themed escape room here! We get locked up in the slave hut and have to figure out the puzzles to get to the goal: a treasure map to some hidden grapevines. Vikings found grapes in New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and PEI, an area they named “Vínland.” They were sought after commodities for making exotic wine. The game is well-designed and challenging, but quite fun!

I go back to the interpretation centre and spend the time reading everything and checking out all the artifacts on display. I read not only about the Scandinavians who sailed out, but also the presence and culture of the local indigenous communities. Various Viking expeditions were here only 10 years over a period of 30, about 1,000 years ago, but the First Nations tribes visited this place over 3,000 years before and after the Norse explorers. There is no indication they crossed paths here though. However, they did meet and trade with them in Vínland and in present-day Labrador.

Once I was satisfied I had experienced everything this place had to offer, I go back to my bike, and ride nearby to Norstead, a recreation of a typical permanent Norse settlement. They built a longhouse, a blacksmith’s workshop, a church and a large boathouse. Small white tents were used for trade.

Snorri is a full-scale replica of a Viking ship. People actually sailed it on the same route Leif Ericsson would have taken! The boat is now being refurbished.

I enjoy Norstead a lot. I could spend an entire day here, and maybe even sleep in the main longhouse like they did back then—if they offered it.

All in all, I really enjoyed the whole experience, and I’m glad I took the time to ride all the way here. The people are awesome, they love their work, and the place is magical. It’s totally worth it!

At the campsite, I take a few minutes to lube up the chain and give the Bonnie a bit of a wipe down before night falls, write this post, then head to bed.

Skål!

Riding distance: 78km