Labrador

I have a look at the time I have left before my ferry ride back, and check the travelling distances for various options. One Judy—from the Visitors Centre—had proposed was to visit the UNESCO Red Bay Historic Site, on the shores of Labrador, not too far from the other ferry here, up North, in St. Barbe. It’s not too much of a detour and I could say that I’ve been to Labrador. I know I can make the time for it, so I decide to go.

The road back down the west coast on the Viking Trail—Route 430—is uneventful, aside from a little rain most of the way down. I make a quick pit stop once for gas & breakfast, then I continue riding to St. Barbe.

I arrive at the dock; no one is here. Wait… at what time is the boat? Oh, right, Judy gave me a schedule. It’s 11:00 a.m. now… Dang! I missed it by 30 minutes! The only other departure is at 3:30 p.m. I should’ve checked the schedule last night and left earlier.

While I’m considering my options, a large red Ford 150 XLT pickup truck pulls up next to my bike. He calls out to me and chats me up. I pet his large black lab for a bit while talking. The man’s an older, scruffy looking fellow, wearing a red plaid fleece shirt, glasses and a cap. He speaks with a very thick Newfoundland accent:

“The name’s Steve; born ‘n raised right here. ’been all over Canada. I’m 65 and ya know, I’m done: never gonna do that again. I’m a heavy machinery operator. Thar’s notin’ to it. Me dad was a fisherman. He fished cod. Right down the river here. Tourists are important for Newfoundland, without them…”

I smile and nod, and ask him questions. He’s the only Newfoundlander I’ve met so far to call himself a “genuine Newfie.” And I can see it.

“How’d ya find this place?” He asks me

“I love it, the people are really nice.”

“That’s the way it should be, right?” He says with a wink and a smile.

He goes on until he gets a phone call and wishes me safe travels. I wish I had asked to take a picture with him. Everything about him was perfect.

If I stick to visiting Labrador later for a bit, the historic site would be closed by the time I get there. After a while, I finally decide to go anyway, find a campground for the night on that side of the St Lawrence, then take the ferry back in the morning. At least I would see a tiny little bit of Labrador.

By the way, one thing we see a lot here are ATVs. It’s a perfectly legal way to get around, even on roads and in cities. Everyone and their grandmother seem to own one.

I learn the best way to book passage on this particular ferry is to call ahead, before the day of travel. I buy the ticket at the terminal and wait for the ship.

The sea was a little rough, It was awkward to walk around at times: I must’ve seemed drunk or something when going to the restroom. I didn’t feel seasick, I was fine and enjoying the experience. Aside from that, the trip was uneventful. It took about 1 hour and 45 minutes; plus, the time zone changed. It’s still rainy.

Last night, while I was lubricating the chain on the bike, I ran out of lubricant, so I stop at a nearby shop now to pick some up. Folks here too are cordial and welcoming. I noticed that people I cross everywhere in Newfoundland greet each other. It makes sense after what Steve told me: “That’s the way it should be.” I’m not used to that in my city back home. I remember back in Guadeloupe, people did that there too.

It’s rainy and foggy, so I have a hard time seeing the landscape, but based on the little bits I could see, I believe the place to be beautiful. the road is nice and curvy, goes up and down. I hope that tomorrow will be bright and sunny, so I can take it all in, and take some pictures too.

I finally get to Red Bay, and visit the local eatery, The Whaler’s Restaurant to sample some local dishes. The staff is friendly, the menu simple. Their specialty is the fish and chips, made with fresh cod. It was delicious; best fries and coleslaw too on this trip.

Now, I head back on the road and retrace my steps back toward Blanc-Sablon, to the Pinware River Provincial Park to set up camp for the night. The forecast for tomorrow looks good…

Riding distance: 243km