Motorcycle playground

I slept like a baby last night. Not long after my last post, I quickly fell asleep. I set my alarm for 6:30AM so I can be on the road early. I went to the lodge for breakfast. Here, apple butter is the theme for the month, so I had an order of their apple butter pancakes with some ham. Pretty good, nothing to write a blog about.

Before heading back to my cabin, I take a quick hike up to the nearby Blackrock summit at 3,721 feet. Impressive view from here! After I take some shots, I turn back to see a small bear meandering about, inquiring about the nearby communications hut. I’ve never seen a bear that close: what a sight! A runner jogs past it without seeing it. As I point it out to her, the bear hears us and scurries off into the bushes. Pretty cool!

Back at the cabin, I finish packing and as I am about to head back to the motorcycle, I can’t find the bike’s key! Oh no! After a frantic search, I start wondering if I left it in the seat lock or the ignition: it happened before. I run back to the bike, and to my relief, the key is still in the seat lock. Sheesh! I better be more mindful about it next time I unlock the seat.

After loading up the bike and returning the cabin’s key to the receptionist, I head back towards Skyline Drive, at the corner of which is another Visitor Information Center. With the fog completely gone, and under a bright sunny day, I see what I missed the evening before: the reason this place is called Big Meadows. The field on the other side of the parkway is quite wide and seems out of place this high up in the mountain range, after riding though forests and against the side of mountains so far.

I learn the parkway was built by members of the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. Thanks to their hard work, we get to enjoy this beautiful drive and the various rustic amenities along the route.

I notice a very nice quilt hanging inside the centre, on the wall behind the counter. After I ask about it, I learn that it was made by the staff and one of the Rangers explains her contribution to it: a bird of prey, because the park is home to many of them, and because she’s passionate about them; and a chimney in honour of man’s involvement in the history of the park. You can still find lone chimneys among ruins here and there in the park. I head back onto Skyline Drive.

After another 60 miles of more outstanding views and smooth road, I exit the park and Skyline Drive becomes Blue Ridge Parkway. I stop at the local Visitor Information Center and chat with the attendant for a bit. Staff is so friendly and charming here, it’s so welcoming.

I finally get to ride the famous Blue Ridge Parkway. This is the reason motorcycling is so pleasurable and fun. While Skyline Drive is only 35mph and inside a National Park, the Blue Ridge Parkway is 45mph and is “just another road.” Well, not like any other road: it’s really fun to ride on a motorcycle! I can let loose a bit more than before, and now it’s all about piloting this motorbike in the best playground for it.

At every turn, I become more and more familiar with the road, with the bike, with what it can handle. I get more and more confident and sharpen my skills and awareness the farther I go. It’s absolutely thrilling! The bike performs admirably. The bike and I are more and more becoming one.

As often as I can, I stop at various “outlooks” (lookouts) to take in the awe-inspiring views of the valleys and mountains around, as far as the eye can see. At most of the stops, there are others enjoying them and taking pictures.

Traffic is light. There are other motorcyclists. I’ve seen some in groups of three, four or five. And, as always, we wave. Sometimes, at stops, we chat and share our stories: where we’re headed; where we’re from, how long we’ve been riding; what bike we have. I often get, “Wow! A Bonneville! I haven’t seen one of those since I rode one back in the sixties. Nice bike!” It’s fun to have a bike that’s not so common: people come to chat with me. I learn about them and their stories.

I stop at the Roanoke River Outlook for a break and to check out the dam and the falls. A train passes by. I hike down to the river and check out the hydroelectric plant a little closer. As I get back to the bike, I meet a fellow Canadian who’s been riding since Monday last week. He’s also been camping and going down the parkway. After we chat for a bit, he stays to take his break while I hit the road; maybe we’ll meet again.

The road from here is quite different. It’s low at 985 feet, and has long straights, not as many curves and there’s much more traffic. I hope it climbs back soon.

After some time, we finally get back up the ridge. I’m amazed that the road sometimes actually tops the ridge, and left and right, you can see both valleys, on each side of the ridge: astonishing!

As the sun starts going down, I start to look for a place to set up camp. I stop to check the directory: still at least 25 more miles. As I ride further, but much before the turnoff I expected to take, I notice a sign for a different campsite, Rocky Knob, an official park authority campground. I stop to see if they have tent camping, and, to my delight, they do!

As I chat with the attendant, in rides the other Canadian I met earlier. He’s also looking for camping. We agree to share a site for $8 a piece; nice!

After setting up our tents, we head out for food & WiFi. The town of Floyd nearby doesn’t have much places offering free WiFi and I still can’t get cell reception anywhere here. Oh well. I stop at Subway and write my blog. I got a long day of riding tomorrow to get to the other end of the parkway and my butt is quite sore…

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