Shenandoah Park & Skyline Drive

Although affordable and convenient, the problem with campsites located next to a highway is traffic. A highway that’s on a steep hill, busy with eighteen-wheelers using their engine brakes to go down the hill, or struggling in low gear to get up the hill, is usually extremely noisy! I often woke up to the sound of tractor-trailers struggling with that hill. Oh well. I was glad when morning came and to get back on the road.

At around 1:00PM, I stopped to have lunch and watch the live broadcast of Apple’s media event, thanks to free WiFi pretty much everywhere. Series 2 of the Apple Watch is “swim proof”, more powerful and has built-in GPS: nice. And to those who think I’ll line up to get one: no, I won’t; I’m happy with the one I have, thank you. Although the new iPhone 7 isn’t that big of a deal, I may upgrade my two year old iPhone. Sleeker design, more powerful, improved camera, waterproof, 3D Touch & not much else. After two hours of the Apple show, I was anxious to get on the road.

Finally arrived in Front Royal, at the north end of the Skyline Drive, I stopped at the Visitor Information Center. The service was really good and I walked away with a bunch of info about the Skyline Drive and Shenandoah Park. Front Royal is a nice all-American town. I’d be happy to spend some time there on a later trip.

I was glad to finally ride onto Skyline Drive. At first, I thought I was riding the Gatineau Parkway; it has a similar feel: a road in a national park. I stop at the rangers’ cabin to pay the fee and they give me a map. Soon after driving off, however, I realize how different this park is: the views are absolutely breathtaking!

The views off the road while riding are wondrous and the overlooks are even more spectacular. The road switches back and forth from one side of the mountain range to the other, each view offering a different perspective of the surrounding valleys and mountains, each more beautiful than the others, in its own way. I do my best to take pictures, but they are really nothing compared to seeing this in person.

Well, I finally got caught in the rain. After I feel a few drops, I turn a corner and the view of the valley below covered in dark clouds with rain showering down is awesome, but I better quickly get ready for when it comes this way: I stop and cover my bag, put on my rain gear and get back to the road. As I ride, the rain comes down harder and harder, until I see the cloud actually go over the mountain inches above my head and cover the road: an awesome sight, but unfortunately, the road gets worse. I nervously ride slower and slower, with all these normally enjoyable twists and turns, I am extra careful.

At one point, my helmet’s visor gets so wet, I start to have trouble seeing the road. And since we’re more than 3,000 feet up, the cloud actually blankets the mountain to the point that the fog is so thick, I can barely see the road! I slow down to a crawl and I pass by a faint shape of a sign that I think shows the turn to Skyland resort; I could barely see inches in front of the bike in the fog. I follow the road to the right and I end up in a parking lot. Two other cars have also stopped here because of the thick fog. We wait it out for a bit. I get off the bike, take out my map and try to read it in the pea soup and the rain.

After a few minutes, I can faintly see the road to the right. I get back on the bike and carefully ride off. I finally get to the Skyland lodge and ask to store my bags inside while I have dinner and plan my next move. The lodge is really beautiful, and it’s certainly worth exploring the area in nice weather. Near here is the highest point on the Skyline Drive: 3,680 feet. During the dinner, the fog clears and the rain stops. Whew! I can make my way to the next campsite, but I won’t be camping tonight. It’s time for a room with a shower and a bed.

I head ten miles South, the road having improved tremendously in the last little while, and get to Big Meadows Lodge after sundown. On the way, I stop for a bit to enjoy the view of the sun setting over the valley: Wondrous! Awe-inspiring! Majestic!

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At the lodge, I book a cabin for the night. Was I ever glad to hop in the shower!