French Ancestors Route

Near my campsite, there’s a short trail to some quaint little falls. I could hear them from my camp. I take some time to enjoy the view and watch as a foam ball gathers and spins around in the current below the falls.

Today, I plan on visiting the French Ancestors route. Newfoundland was home to many French pioneers before the conflict with the British. They had to settle first on the North East coast then on the West coast. Acadians also came from New Brunswick. Today, many place names on the Port au Port Peninsula have French roots.

I make my way to Cape St George where I find a monument to Acadiens at Boutte du Cap Park. There’s a stone oven here, and they are baking wonderfully delicious little breads which they serve with butter & molasses. There’s jam too. The teenagers doing the baking demonstration speak French with an Acadian accent. I rejoice in this little corner of French culture.

I decide to check out Long Point, which I think might have a nice view of the cliffs on the mainland. The last 10 km of road is unpaved and the bike kicks up clouds of dirt behind me. The view doesn’t disappoint, and the water here is clear. I lie down on the rock and snooze for a little bit, bathing in the peace and quiet of the place, the sound of little waves crashing up on the rocks below is soothing.

After some time to rest, I head back out to the mainland, back on the Transcontinental Highway. I booked a camping spot for the night, so I have time to stop in Corner Brook for dinner & some writing. The gas station attendant recommends Newfound Sushi so I stop there. My waiter recommends the East Meets West, a.k.a. Coast Rolls: alternating rolls of tuna and salmon, from the coasts of Newfoundland. They are the absolute best sushi rolls I have ever had! And as one of my favourite dishes, I’ve had a lot of sushi. Be sure to try them if you’re ever in Corner Brook.

After my wonderful dining experience, I head west on the 450. There are plenty of little coastal villages on the way, a few of them had harbours. The road winds around next to the Bay of Islands, hugging the hills on the left.

Once, I stopped on the side of the road to take a picture of the sunset behind the islands of the bay. I had my camera on a mini tripod on the ground, set to long exposure. As I was fiddling with the camera, a car pulls ahead of my bike and two kind gentlemen came to check on me: they thought I had fallen off my bike! I thanked them for their concern and they went on their way. Whatever people say and the media shows, in my experience, human beings are mostly kind and compassionate, don’t you find?

Riding distance: 500km